| Jaeger
LeCoultre: Enamel collection 2009 |
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Enamel collection 2009
Jaeger-LeCoultre, the undisputed master of enamel, celebrates the union of fine watchmaking
and absolute artistic refinement
The oldest and most delicate of the decorative arts no longer hold any secrets for the Grande
Maison in the Vallée de Joux. Enamelling, engraving and gem-setting are a set of virtuoso crafts that
it associates at will in its horological and artistic creations. A splendid embodiment of the love of
fine details that has always characterised Jaeger-LeCoultre, the art of miniature enamel painting
dedicates its absolute beauty to highlighting the watchmaking feats of the Manufacture – one of the
rare brands to enhance its wristwatches with the full range of traditional fine watchmaking
embellishments.
In 2009, the artists of the Manufacture, who cultivate very special ties with this exquisitely refined
ornamental technique, wished to present a full-fledged anthology of their talent by offering two
exceptional series illustrating two traditional enamel techniques – grand feu and champlevé
enamelling – on two famous timepieces in the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection: the Master Minute
Repeater and the Master Grand Tourbillon.
The goddess of love, the muse of the Master Minute Repeater
In order to provide a particularly ‘striking’ demonstration of its expertise, the Manufacture has
chosen to treat the dial of the Master Minute Repeater to a stunning interpretation in the form of
enamelled miniatures of four famous historical paintings depicting Venus, the goddess of love.
These works stem from a variety of sources of inspiration encompassing the Italian Renaissance, the
Spanish school of art and French classicism, as embodied by the famous examples selected by the
master-enamellers of the Manufacture:
‘The Birth of Venus’ by Botticelli; ‘The Venus of Urbino’ by Titian; the ‘Rokeby Venus’ by Velasquez
and ‘Venus Anadyomène’ by Ingres.
Above and beyond their extraordinary expressive strength, these masterpieces adapt themselves
superbly to the diminutive size of the dial on the Master Minute Repeater. The creative talents of
the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux have chosen to associate the testimony of their
admiration for these great painters with the crystal-clear sound of the Master Minute Repeater,
featuring a sonorous opulence and flawless purity that represent a major breakthrough in the
audible indication of time. Nonetheless, in order to preserve the authentic horological nature of
these exceptional artistic accomplishments, the four unique watches dedicated to the great names
in the universal painting heritage do not merely show the hours and minutes. They are also
distinguished by the presence of two additional indications appearing on the dial in a manner that is
both ideally legible and perfectly discreet: the torque released by the two barrels is shown at 4
o’clock, and the power reserve at 8 o’clock.
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Glowing tributes to the great discoveries: the Master Grand Tourbillon Continents
Historical evidence of the first appearance of enamelling in its present form points to the late 15th
century, and this delicate art enjoyed its heyday in a period when European civilisation was heading
towards the most sweeping upheaval in its history. This was the era when the lengthy sea voyages
and explorations undertaken by Spanish and Portuguese navigators revealed the existence of
hitherto unknown territories. Over 500 years after this radical change in our vision of the universe,
the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre wished to celebrate the timeless refinement of enamelling and
the recognition that the earth is indeed round by presenting three exclusive Master Grand
Tourbillon models presenting the face of our planet through a splendid enamelling achievement
within a series named Continents.
By dint of meticulous workmanship using the champlevé technique (literally ‘raised field’), the area
to be decorated is hollowed out with a burin while leaving aside the partitions marking off the
individual ‘honeycomb cells’, representing the motifs to be reproduced on the gold dial plate. The
surface of each continent has been meticulously engraved and guilloché-worked in the direction of
the four points of the compass, echoed on the bezel, while the oceans are distinguished by wavelike
decorative effects. The layers of translucent enamel reveal the engraved motifs and confer
extraordinary depth and incredibly intense colours on this horological planisphere. The bezel is
engraved with the geographical coordinates of the central point of the motif, where the hands are
fixed.
Through the magic of this patient labour of love followed by numerous firing operations, the
borders of the various countries and the outlines of the continents gradually take shape on the dial.
Each Master Grand Tourbillon presents one of the three large continental ensembles: Asia and
Australia – the Americas – and the entity composed of Europe, Africa and the Middle East.
By its very nature, this meticulously accurate craftsmanship clearly precludes any large-series
production, which means the Master Grand Tourbillon will always remain an absolutely exclusive
edition. Each of the three versions will be issued in strictly limited series of 20 in platinum, 20 in
pink gold and 20 in yellow gold, all fitted with a sapphire crystal case-back to reveal another
prodigious accomplishment: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 978 with its legendary precision. The
tourbillon regulator appears in all its splendour at 6 o’clock, at the heart of land or sea depending
on the model. |
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